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on Monday, December 29th, 2008 at 8:49 pm and is filed under Scooter Gears.
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Engine oil that is best suited for that scooter is 5w40, if the scooter is new it is best to use regular ‘dino’ oil for the first 750 miles (or about 1000 chinometers), synthetic oils are really just to slick to allow the rings to set in properly. If the scooter is already broken in, synthetic oil is ok to use.
To change the engine oil, on the bottom of the scooter you will find two bolts, one is pretty large, that bolt is where you will find what passes for an oil filter, it is nothing more than a fine wire screen, but it should be taken out and cleaned. Gasoline will do the cleaning just fine, allow it to dry out before putting it back in. The smaller bolt is the actual oil drain plug, and it is noticeably smaller than the filter bolt. The smaller bolt should be removed and drained first, then the filter bolt. Almost everyone ignores the small drain plug, and just drains oil from the filter bolt hole… not the best idea, but it seems to work for most folks. If the filter hole is used as the drain hole, once the oil stops dripping out, rock the scooter from side to side, and cycle the kick starter a few times (DO NOT TURN THE IGNITION ON), this will help expel oil that is still in the engine workings. Immediately above the filter bolt, on top of the crankcase, you will find a large bolt that has a raised ridge running across its middle, that is the oil fill hole, and when you unscrew it you will see the dip stick attatched. You add oil there, and you want the level to be about mid way on cross-hatched portion of the dip stick. You check by adding oil, about 1/2 quart, then put the bolt/dip stick in the opening (wipe the dip stick off first)… do not screw it down! Pull it out and see where the oil level is… you may not see any oil on the stick, just keep adding SMALL amounts of oil until you get the level right. DO NOT OVERFILL the crankcase, it will do no good and and can actually cause engine problems. (Too much pressure) The total amount of oil I am not certain of, but I believe it is less than a quart, about .80qt. if I remember correctly.
OK, now the gear oil, ‘transmission fluid’ … on the left side of the scooter (as you sit on it) and opposite the muffler, you will see an oblong casing, that is the ‘drive train’ and the oil in there should be 80W90 GEAR OIL… some use the same engine oil for this but it is not the best thing to do, gear oil does not break down nearly as fast as engine oil in this use. Again, on the bottom of the casing, there will be a small bolt, that is the drain hole. The fill hole is on the SIDE of the casing near the top edge, not on top of the casing, and has to be filled with the use of some type of oil can (pump type) or anything else that will inject the oil, I have seen a turkey baster used, and the ‘flavor injection’ syringes work extremely well. Fill through the side hole until oil begins to drip out of it, replace the screw and wipe off the excess, you are done. There is very little gear oil used, so don’t be shocked by the small amount!
That scooter has a 4 stroke engine and oil and gasoline are NOT mixed. A 2 cycle engine requires that oil and gasoline to be mixed together, and that is how the motor is lubricated. 4 stroke motors have a crankcase (that we just learned how to deal with) for the lubrication oil.
Brake Fluid, do not bother with it unless you are having failure of the FRONT brake… Brake fluid is nasty stuff and will eat paint and almost anything it comes in contact with, such as the plastic parts of the scooter! FYI, the front brake is hydraulic and the fluid resorvoir is on the right side of the handle bar, it may be exposed or it may be under plastic cowling (depends on the ‘style’ of the bike) it is a small rectangular box. I doubt the rear brake is the same type, it is typically just a simple drum arrangement and does not use fluid.
These engines work hard, and the oil cannot be changed to often! Every 1000 miles is good, fewer miles is even better. If the scooter is new, change the oil NOW, the junk the Chinese put in there is less than worthless! The cheapest insurance you can have for the life of that motor is clean oil, it cannot be stressed enough. When you change the oil, you are removing tiny little metalic particles that you often can not even see, but they are there, especially in a new motor. Those metal particles can and will do harm to the engine, they will not destroy it like in blowing it up, but they will cause undue wear!
Send a pm if you need help or clarification on anything at all.
Wal-Mart SuperTech oil works fine . . engine 15W40 . . rear gearbox 80W90 (comes in a pointed top round bottle). Also consider checking valve lash (.004 inches cold).
December 30th, 2008 at 1:38 am
Engine oil that is best suited for that scooter is 5w40, if the scooter is new it is best to use regular ‘dino’ oil for the first 750 miles (or about 1000 chinometers), synthetic oils are really just to slick to allow the rings to set in properly. If the scooter is already broken in, synthetic oil is ok to use.
To change the engine oil, on the bottom of the scooter you will find two bolts, one is pretty large, that bolt is where you will find what passes for an oil filter, it is nothing more than a fine wire screen, but it should be taken out and cleaned. Gasoline will do the cleaning just fine, allow it to dry out before putting it back in. The smaller bolt is the actual oil drain plug, and it is noticeably smaller than the filter bolt. The smaller bolt should be removed and drained first, then the filter bolt. Almost everyone ignores the small drain plug, and just drains oil from the filter bolt hole… not the best idea, but it seems to work for most folks. If the filter hole is used as the drain hole, once the oil stops dripping out, rock the scooter from side to side, and cycle the kick starter a few times (DO NOT TURN THE IGNITION ON), this will help expel oil that is still in the engine workings. Immediately above the filter bolt, on top of the crankcase, you will find a large bolt that has a raised ridge running across its middle, that is the oil fill hole, and when you unscrew it you will see the dip stick attatched. You add oil there, and you want the level to be about mid way on cross-hatched portion of the dip stick. You check by adding oil, about 1/2 quart, then put the bolt/dip stick in the opening (wipe the dip stick off first)… do not screw it down! Pull it out and see where the oil level is… you may not see any oil on the stick, just keep adding SMALL amounts of oil until you get the level right. DO NOT OVERFILL the crankcase, it will do no good and and can actually cause engine problems. (Too much pressure) The total amount of oil I am not certain of, but I believe it is less than a quart, about .80qt. if I remember correctly.
OK, now the gear oil, ‘transmission fluid’ … on the left side of the scooter (as you sit on it) and opposite the muffler, you will see an oblong casing, that is the ‘drive train’ and the oil in there should be 80W90 GEAR OIL… some use the same engine oil for this but it is not the best thing to do, gear oil does not break down nearly as fast as engine oil in this use. Again, on the bottom of the casing, there will be a small bolt, that is the drain hole. The fill hole is on the SIDE of the casing near the top edge, not on top of the casing, and has to be filled with the use of some type of oil can (pump type) or anything else that will inject the oil, I have seen a turkey baster used, and the ‘flavor injection’ syringes work extremely well. Fill through the side hole until oil begins to drip out of it, replace the screw and wipe off the excess, you are done. There is very little gear oil used, so don’t be shocked by the small amount!
That scooter has a 4 stroke engine and oil and gasoline are NOT mixed. A 2 cycle engine requires that oil and gasoline to be mixed together, and that is how the motor is lubricated. 4 stroke motors have a crankcase (that we just learned how to deal with) for the lubrication oil.
Brake Fluid, do not bother with it unless you are having failure of the FRONT brake… Brake fluid is nasty stuff and will eat paint and almost anything it comes in contact with, such as the plastic parts of the scooter! FYI, the front brake is hydraulic and the fluid resorvoir is on the right side of the handle bar, it may be exposed or it may be under plastic cowling (depends on the ‘style’ of the bike) it is a small rectangular box. I doubt the rear brake is the same type, it is typically just a simple drum arrangement and does not use fluid.
These engines work hard, and the oil cannot be changed to often! Every 1000 miles is good, fewer miles is even better. If the scooter is new, change the oil NOW, the junk the Chinese put in there is less than worthless! The cheapest insurance you can have for the life of that motor is clean oil, it cannot be stressed enough. When you change the oil, you are removing tiny little metalic particles that you often can not even see, but they are there, especially in a new motor. Those metal particles can and will do harm to the engine, they will not destroy it like in blowing it up, but they will cause undue wear!
Send a pm if you need help or clarification on anything at all.
Enjoy your scooter, it will be a lot of fun!
December 31st, 2008 at 8:22 pm
oil change video
Wal-Mart SuperTech oil works fine . . engine 15W40 . . rear gearbox 80W90 (comes in a pointed top round bottle). Also consider checking valve lash (.004 inches cold).